It's OK To Want A Crease: Makeup Tips For Asian Eyes

And half-Asian eyes, too! ('Cause that's what I have.)
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Caitlin K.
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And half-Asian eyes, too! ('Cause that's what I have.)

As a half-Asian lady with a serious fetish for eyeshadow palettes in ridiculous colours, I’m often frustrated by the lack of advice out there for women with eyes that don’t conform to the "Western standard."

Yes, there are surgeries to create eyelid creases, and they are problematic because of globalization of beauty standards and the patriarchy and society and whatever, but what I really want to know is: How do I do eye makeup when I essentially have no advice to learn from?

Uh...

Uh...

Answer: any old way I like.

I’ve been experimenting with eyeshadow for 14 years, doing exactly what everyone else does, but with some minor modifications to cut down on frustration and eye-poking.

Play around with these looks and see what suits you best. They range from dead-easy (eyeliner smudging) to AP level (faking a crease), but with practice and patience, you’ll get there. At least I hope you will. Once you do, you should drop me a line, because I still need practice.

MULTICOLOR PALETTES

So you bought a palette with four colours that complement each other, and now you need to know how to put them on your face.

It goes like this: lightest colour in the corner by your nose, medium colour all over, darkest colour in the outer corner.

Make a little V by drawing some along the bottom lid too like so.

Is there a fourth colour? Whatever. Use it in any way you like; it really will depend on the palette. Sometimes the extra colour is a pretty shimmer that you can use all over to make the look more exciting for evening, and sometimes it’s a completely random shade of green that makes you look like an alien. Don’t sweat it.

Like those eyebrows? I’m growing them in to look like Annie.

Like those eyebrows? I’m growing them in to look like Annie.

I used the darkest colour from the Dior 5-Colour Eyeshadow palette (a shimmery black) as an eyeliner. I only do the outer half of my eyelid because I heard that your eyes look further apart this way.

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You can add more layers of colour for a more intense effect, I kept this looking fairly light so it’s more wearable for daytime.

FAKING A CREASE

Definitely the most difficult to achieve convincingly. If you’re feeling confident, then by all means, give this a go, but be aware that a certain amount of eye-poking will happen.

Use the tapered crease brush you bought that time you thought you had a crease. Now close one eye and use that brush to sort of outline the top of your eyeball. Smush some color in an arc shape that contours the top of the eyeball.

The tapered brush on a pretty background so you don’t see the smudges of makeup on my counter.  

The tapered brush on a pretty background so you don’t see the smudges of makeup on my counter.  

It’ll look harsh at first, but do it on both sides to make sure they match in terms of intensity before you soften the edges by blending.

I don’t bother with shimmery colours for this since I think that kind of defeats the purpose of contouring. Stick with a medium-dark colour that works with the rest of your eye makeup.

Experiment with this look a bit because it’s hard to get it right, and even harder to get it right on both eyes.

Here, I used the colours from NARS Bellissima.

Here, I used the colours from NARS Bellissima.

I like that it looks subtle enough for daytime without being blindingly obvious. For evenings I punch it up by using a darker shade of brown to draw the big arc. Just be sure to blend!

SCREW IT--JUST WEAR EYELINER

You already knew that, right? Slap on a thick line of eyeliner, blend it upwards, call it a smoky eye and you’re done. Hooray for simplicity!

Benefit BADgal eyeliner.

Benefit BADgal eyeliner.

I smudged it all over and then kept adding more until I got the look I wanted. I avoid eyeliner on the bottom because I’m convinced it makes my eyes look smaller, but feel free to play around with this.

MAKING YOUR EYES LOOK WIDER

Is this controversial? Maybe. But I’m paranoid that I have small eyes so I like to play around to make them look wider.

I do pale liner in the waterlines (not fun for contact lens wearers), then curl my eyelashes. Mascara on the bottom lashes also opens the eyes up, as does a bright inner corner.

But the best advice I can give for looking wide awake and bright eyed? A good long sleep. Or orgasm.

Pale golden white on the inner corner, Benefit Eye Bright on the lower waterline. Then mascara on top and bottom. Flutter ‘em and pretend to be Zooey Deschanel. 

Pale golden white on the inner corner, Benefit Eye Bright on the lower waterline. Then mascara on top and bottom. Flutter ‘em and pretend to be Zooey Deschanel. 

My other main beauty tip for Asian gals: Check out what other girls and women you know have done with their eyes. My mother favours a thick line of navy eyeliner all the way around her eye because she is crazy, but maybe you know women in your life whose look you can copy.

Don’t be afraid to play in front of the mirror on quiet nights just to see what works. I’m a big advocate of using what you already have to create new looks, even if that means breaking some rules.

What are your favorite eye makeup tricks for Asian eyes?