I would normally breeze through Fashion Week without so much as a second thought because even though I live in NYC, NYFW is basically the biggest party of the year that I’m never invited to because I don’t exist in that world. Thank god for the Internet; otherwise I’d never know which models are Models and what decade is back in this season.
While I’m all for graphic Mary Quant makeup and all things mod, my inner punk side bemoans anything reeking even slightly of twee, a common dismissal of the '60s-as-interpreted-by-the-present aesthetic. I can toe the line with my A-line shift dresses and Doc Martens, but I often shy away from anything a passerby would remark as “So Mad Men!” and “Such vintage!” It’s slightly more difficult than it seems, being that I front a '60s-inspired pop music project, but I like my Peter Pan collars and go-go boots with a side of Courtney Love and Kathleen Hanna, thanks v. much.
Enter Libertine, who has to date never failed to pique my interest with their offbeat neo-futuristic details on edgy yet feminine collections. What really caught my eye this year is what I consider the black-and-white cookie of eye makeup. Because that’s literally what it is (sans cookie).
I love a bold, thick cat eye. It just oozes a kind of prim/punk dichotomy, especially with the smokiness. But THEN there’s a swipe of stark white on the lower eyelid, opaque even on the bottom lashes. So monochrome. So cool. I tried my hand at the graphic look, something I’d save for the next time I’m yodeling "Cities In Dust" on Siouxsie Sioux karaoke night. (Must find bar that hosts Siouxsie Sioux karaoke night).
It’s actually quite simple to replicate. All you need is black eyeliner, white eyeliner (Butter LONDON products were used on the runway) and a heavy hand. Some brushes for smudging don’t hurt either, but if you really want to commit to the spirit of it, just use your fingers to smudge.
I used Buxom’s Lashliner in Leatherette. I like that it’s smudgy and malleable, but also opaque.
Using an angled eyeliner brush, apply a thick cat eye all the way up to the crease of your eyelid, extending the flick a little further than demure. Take a smudging brush and gently smudge the line above your eye. Leave the flick alone.
I also dabbed some eyeliner on my waterline, mostly focusing on working it into the lash line from below to make my eyelashes kind of camouflage within it.
Next, you take a white eyeliner pencil and line the waterline of your bottom lid. I’m using Wet 'n' Wild’s trusty basic pencil liner. It’s not totally hard, but I like to run the pencil tip on the back of my hand a couple times to warm it up. I then “painted” the pencil liner on my bottom lashes, letting it kind of get all up in there and below as well.
When I thought I had applied a bit excess, I used a clean smudge brush and brushed downwards to smudge the white liner and blend into my under-eye concealer (whoops).
I skipped mascara, opting to just curl my lashes instead. The rest of the face is kept bare, save for a muted pink lip. I applied NARS Chihuahua lip gloss sparingly over my lips, which already had lip balm on them to cut the shine factor a bit.
Libertine’s models had a deep side-part and a kind of bouffanted faux bob. I recently chopped off most of my hair, so my bob dropped the “faux” the other week. Not that that bothers me at all, since I’m all for a messy Blondie-esque side part.
I added some hairspray to keep the front panel slick and applied some camellia oil just to the ends to give them a little textured separation. Also, camellia is great for dry ends. Just because my hair looks messy, no one has to know I’m secretly really fastidious about grooming. Tell no one. My punk cred is at stake. I mean, not that that normally isn’t the case anyway, but rules were made to be broken, no?