Only a couple of years ago, I realised the reason I hate wearing a smoky eye: it was barely visible and made me look like my eyes were just tired.
This is due to the fact that my eyes are hooded, which basically applies to all eyes that have a crease that is hidden by the skin of the immobile lid. Many people develop this saggy skin from growing older; other lucky gals, like me, just have eyes that are more hooded for no apparent reason.
It used to bother me, but now I’m like “Whatever, what kind of eye is desirable, anyway?" And then I lift up my eyebrows in the mirror and imagine how weird and Spock-ish I’d look.
Anyway, since figuring this all out, I have also figured out how to do a smoky eye to open my eye and create a visible crease.
I always use some sort of primer, because my saggy, oily eyelids are unforgiving on any eyeshadow. The one I used here was the Claudia Stevens Lid and Lip Primer Base, which is a cheap but effective primer to make both eyeshadows and lipsticks pop and stay put.
After this, I used an eyeshadow all over, MAC in Woodwinked, which is a warm brown tone with a metallic finish. This is a great colour that can be worn on its own all over the lid, but it creates a great base for a warm smoky eye. The shimmer will also make the brow bone stand out more.
Next, we are going to create a crease above the natural crease. To do so, I always apply this on an open eye, so that I can see where to place my crease.
Starting from the corner of the eye, I applied MAC Embarked, which is a more intense, matte brown. While looking in the mirror, I built a crease above the mobile lid, being careful not to apply the eyeshadow too far onto the browbone.
The reason for the matte eyeshadow is so that our crease looks deeper and more natural.
Focus most of your colour near the outer corner of the eye, but be sure to blend into the whole crease. Always use a clean brush to blend, so that you’re not just dumping more colour while you’re trying to even it out. If you wish, you can stop here and have a wearable, daytime look.
To get a darker, sexier smoky eye, all we need to do is build on the crease that we have created, adding more dimensions and deeper shades. I like to give my look staying power, so I applied MAC Eye Kohl in Teddy, a perfect brown eyeliner for all occasions, in little dashes where the crease has been created, and blended that in. To soften this, I added MAC Sketch, a velvet, burgundy tone with a slight shimmer, focusing on the outer corners and blending in to soften it all.
A very important final step is to do a bit of cleanup. Taking a foundation brush or a clean tissue or earbud, wipe the area from the corner of the eye to the end of your eyebrow in an upwards motion. This is to ensure that your eyelid doesn’t appear droopy from messy application.
All that’s left now is to add a couple of coats of your favourite mascara--I love Benefit They’re Real for extra oomph and curling without an eyelash curler.
How do you modify your smoky eye look for your eye shape?