Makeup Tutorial: Taking The Gold Leaf Plunge With Chanel

How to get the makeup look created by Tom Pecheux for Chanel's 2015 cruise collection runway show.
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How to get the makeup look created by Tom Pecheux for Chanel's 2015 cruise collection runway show.

Runways are an endless source of makeup inspiration for me. 

A few days after seeing beauty shots from Chanel's 2015 cruise show online, I was still trying to catch my breath, because: GORGEOUS. 

Those smoky eyes. Those dewy complexions. That little touch of gold leaf. It's a soft drama that oozes summer and seduction, thanks to the skill and imagination of makeup artist Tom Pecheux

Photography by Vincent Lappartient

Photography by Vincent Lappartient

I reached out to Chanel and they graciously sent me some products used at their Dubai cruise show. Today, I'm going to take you through the products and show you how to recreate monsieur Pecheux's hypnotizing look. 

LIPS 

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Here we have Rouge Allure Luminous Intense Lip Color in Indécise (nude) and Rouge Allure Velvet Luminous Matte in L'Eclatante (pink). Models in the show also wore a gloss, but that, unfortunately, won’t be released until next month.

Top to bottom: Rouge Allure in Indécise and Rougue Allure Velvet in L'Eclatante

Top to bottom: Rouge Allure in Indécise and Rougue Allure Velvet in L'Eclatante

Indécise is one of the richest nudes I've ever used. It applies semi-opaque and errs on the side of a warm pink-beige. The texture is lightweight and the shimmer is pleasingly understated. You can wear this for about three hours before reapplying. L’Eclatante is a bright bubblegum pink that applies smooth with a matte cream finish. While I love the color, the formula is quite drying and doesn't spread evenly. It applies best over well-exfoliated lips with a little gloss. 

L'Eclatante (top) is a remarkable color, but A++ goes to Indécise (bottom).

L'Eclatante (top) is a remarkable color, but A++ goes to Indécise (bottom).

FACE 

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To achieve a pristine complexion, Pecheux used the following: 

- Perfection Lumiére Velvet Smooth-Effect Makeup Broad Spectrum SPF 15 

- Éclat Lumiere Highlighter Face Pen

- Correcteur Perfection Long Lasting Concealer

- Poudre Universelle Libre Natural Finish Loose Powder

- Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Color

He also used Camelia De Plumes Highlighting Powder in Platine, but you'll have to wait until November to buy that. 

A shade or two darker couldn’t hurt.

A shade or two darker couldn’t hurt.

The formula of the Perfection Lumiére Velvet is lightweight, oil-free, and provides a matte, velvet finish. Since the foundation is water-based, the bottle needs a good shake before use. Once applied, it gives light to medium coverage that, when used with primer, lasts all day and holds up well to heat. 

Can you spot the selfie?

Can you spot the selfie?

Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Color goes hand-in-hand with the foundation. With a sheer, light formula, it provides a luminous finish and SPF 15. 

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The Poudre Universelle Libre Natural Finish Loose Powder is B-A-N-A-N-A-S. Formulated with light reflecting pigments, it's used to set foundation and blush and helps disguise imperfections without emphasizing lines. The price is high, but the amount of product is substantial. It's a little messy to use, though. 

EYES

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For eyes, products include: 

- Illusion D’Ombre Long Wear Luminous Eyeshadow in Mirifique 

- Illusion D’Ombre Long Wear Luminous Eyeshadow in Convoitise

- Le Crayon Khol Intense Eye Pencil in Noir

- Le Volume De Chanel Mascara in Noir

- Crayon Sourcils Sculpting Eyebrow Pencil

- Les 4 Ombres in Rêve d'Orient 

- Écriture De Chanel Automatic Liquid Liner 

Those last two won't be available until next month. As for the false lashes and gold leaf, those are not for sale, but you can find gold leaf at most art supply stores. 

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Illusion D’Ombre Long Wear Luminous Eyeshadow in Mirifique is an intense midnight black with a shimmer effect. It has a soft gel texture, but be warned, it sets super fast. Work fast if you intend to smudge. 

I’m going to be outrageous for a second and rave about a $30 pencil. Le Crayon Khol Intense Eye Pencil in Noir glides on like butter. It's packed with pigment and it smudges easily, which is a must when creating a smoky eye. 

Time to Put These Products to WERK!

STEP 1: Foundation

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Apply primer and concealer to under-eyes and any blemishes. Use your fingers or a brush to blend in Perfection Lumiére Velvet. Try to focus on uneven spots such as nose, cheeks, and chin, rather than blending all over.

STEP 2: Set It

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Lightly dust Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Color all over to set the foundation and create a matte finish. You can opt out of this step if you suffer from dry skin.

STEP 3: Cheeks

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Using a dense brush, sweep blush from the apples of your cheeks to the top of your cheekbone. I used NARS in Dolce Vita followed by bronzer for subtle definition. 

STEP 4: Smoky Eye

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Line your upper lid with the Crayon Khol Intense Eye Pencil. Then use an eyeliner brush to extend from the outer corner. Feel free to play around with how long or short you prefer the line to stretch. (Cotton swabs are handy here.)

Close-up of one eye completed.

Close-up of one eye completed.

Don’t worry if the line isn’t perfect, because you're about to smudge it. 

Don’t worry if the line isn’t perfect, because you're about to smudge it. 

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Apply Illusion D’Ombre Long Wear Luminous Eyeshadow from your lash toward the crease of your lid. Use either your fingers or the accompanying shadow liner brush to apply, and then blend out the crease with a dome-shaped brush. 

Chanel Resort 2015 Makeup

Note: Remember when I said this stuff sets quickly? Make sure you work fast or else you’ll end up with an uneven application. Apply the eye pencil along the lower lash line. Then, using an angled eyeliner brush, proceed to extend the line out, but this time using the shadow. Last, sweep Luminous Eyeshadow in Convoitise just under the brow bone (not pictured).

Chanel Resort 2015 Makeup

Fill the two lines at the outer corner of your eye with glitter shadow (ideally, Convoitise). I used a damp eyeshadow brush for a tighter, more impactful application. 

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Next up are false eyelashes. Make sure to bend the lashes before gluing and applying, otherwise the ends could pop up. Once dried, re-line your eyes using the eye pencil and apply Le Volume De Chanel Mascara to your bottom lashes.

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STEP 5: Finishing Touches 

Lightly dust on the Poudre Universelle Libre Natural Finish Loose Powder using either a powder brush or the Chanel puff. Finish the look with Rouge Allure in Indécise and a blob of gloss applied to the center of the lips.

Chanel Resort 2015 Makeup

I couldn't find gold leaf, so I used Stila Magnificent Metals Foil Finish Eye Shadow as a substitute.   

Chanel Resort 2015 Makeup

And here I'm wearing Rogue Allure Velvet in L’Eclatante.

Phew. We're done. Totally worth it, right? 

I give this look an A++, as did the friends I met with at a bar immediately after shooting this tutorial. (Lots of oohs and ahhs!) 

Where would you wear this look? A bar? Da club? How do you feel about putting gold leaf on your face and leaving the house? 

P.S. In case you missed it, I demonstrated the hair look from the Chanel cruise show yesterday.